Serving Salt Lake, Utah, Davis, Weber, Summit, Wasatch, Tooele & Morgan countiesSister company of SwiftHand Painting · 801-895-3794
Decoding the quotes

Polyurea vs. Polyaspartic — Read the Quote, Not the Brochure

One franchise sells 'polyurea,' another sells '100% polyaspartic,' a third calls it all epoxy. They're closer than the marketing suggests, and the best floor uses both. Here's how to read what you're being quoted.

Licensed & insured in UtahOwner-run, sister company of SwiftHand Painting15-Year transferable warrantyDiamond-ground prep, never acid etchServing 130+ northern Utah communities
Polyurea vs. Polyaspartic

They're cousins, not competitors

Polyaspartic is a polyurea — specifically an aliphatic polyurea, a slower-reacting version developed so it could be rolled by hand instead of sprayed. When a quote says 'polyurea base coat,' it usually means a fast-setting aromatic polyurea that penetrates deeply into ground concrete. When it says 'polyaspartic topcoat,' it means the UV-stable version that stays clear. The best residential system uses one of each: polyurea for the bond, polyaspartic for the wear layer.

What each layer is for

LayerBest chemistryWhy
Base coatPolyurea (or 100%-solids epoxy indoors)Low viscosity wets deep into diamond-ground concrete; strong mechanical bond; carries pigment.
DecorativeVinyl flake / quartz / metallicThe look, the texture, the slip resistance.
TopcoatPolyasparticUV-stable, abrasion- and chemical-resistant, fast cure, takes anti-slip additive.

What '100% polyaspartic' means

Usually that the installer uses polyaspartic for both the base and the top. It works, but polyaspartic doesn't penetrate as deeply as a true polyurea base, and it's more expensive material — so you're often paying more for a slightly weaker bond and a good story. 'One hundred percent' is a slogan, not a spec.

What 'polyurea' means when a franchise says it

Typically a polyurea base with a polyaspartic top — exactly the system above — plus a claim like '20× stronger than epoxy.' The system is good. The multiplier is marketing. The things to verify are the prep (diamond grinding, not etching), the flake broadcast (full, to rejection), and the topcoat (UV-stable polyaspartic).

How to read a quote

  • Prep: 'diamond grind' or 'shot blast' — good. 'Acid etch' or 'pressure wash' — walk away.
  • Moisture test: mentioned, or at least asked about. If not, ask.
  • Base coat: polyurea or 100%-solids epoxy. Water-based anything is a paint.
  • Flake: 'full broadcast' or 'to rejection.' 'Partial' or 'light' broadcast shows base coat.
  • Topcoat: polyaspartic (aliphatic). Epoxy or urethane clear yellows.
  • Mils: a full system should finish 25+ mils. Under 15 is a kit.
  • Warranty: written terms, including what's excluded. A 'lifetime' warranty with no document isn't one.
Our quotes list every layer, the prep method, the flake coverage and the warranty terms, because you should be able to compare them line by line. Get one in five minutes.
FAQ

Common questions

Is polyurea stronger than polyaspartic?

As a base coat, a true polyurea bonds a little better; as a topcoat, polyaspartic is more UV-stable and abrasion-resistant. That's why the right system uses both.

Why do some quotes say polyurea and others polyaspartic?

Branding. Most professional flake floors are a polyurea base with a polyaspartic top regardless of what the brochure leads with.

Is a polyurea floor really 20 times stronger than epoxy?

On certain lab measures of elongation and tensile strength you can find big multipliers. On a garage floor the meaningful differences are UV stability, cure time and flexibility — real advantages that don't need a made-up number.

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