Every coating we install starts with repair, and every repair uses polyurea that moves with the slab instead of cement patch that pops out. We also do repair-only jobs for slabs you're not ready to coat.
Northern Utah slabs crack. Clay soils along the valley floor expand and shrink, bench lots settle, garages get poured in November and cure too fast, and 30 years of freeze-thaw opens every hairline into a real gap. None of that is a reason to replace a slab, and most of it is not a reason to skip a coating — but every crack, pit and joint has to be filled correctly first, or it will telegraph straight through the new floor.
We use two-part polyurea joint filler and mender for repairs because it cures in minutes, bonds to ground concrete, and stays flexible enough to move with the slab through Utah winters. Cement patch and hardware-store crack caulk don't — they shrink, crack and let go. After the polyurea cures we grind it flush so it disappears under the coating.
Repair is included in every coating quote. We also do standalone repair for customers who want the pits filled and the control joints sealed on a slab they're keeping bare for now.
Polyurea mender moves with the slab through freeze-thaw instead of cracking out like cement patch.
Repairs are ground flush and ready for coating the same day.
Filled and ground repairs disappear under a full-flake floor.
Sealed cracks stop taking in brine and water, which is what makes them grow.
No surprise repair line items on install day — it's in the written price.
Fill and seal now, coat later.
Every SwiftHand floor follows the same sequence. Skipping a step is how coatings fail, so we don't.
Measure the space, check the slab for moisture and old coatings, pick a finish. You get a written price — online in minutes or in person.
We grind the concrete with dust-controlled diamond grinders to open the pores. Never acid etching, which is why our floors don't peel.
Cracks, pits, spalls and control joints are filled with polyurea joint filler and mender, then ground flush. Moisture is tested before anything goes down.
A pigmented polyurea/polyaspartic base coat is rolled on and wets into the ground concrete for a mechanical bond.
Vinyl flake is broadcast to full rejection (or metallic, quartz or solid color applied), then scraped smooth once set.
A clear polyaspartic topcoat locks it all in — chemical, UV and hot-tire resistant. Walk on it that evening; park on it in about 48 hours.
Repair as part of a coating job is included in the coating price. Standalone crack and joint repair is usually priced per linear foot of crack or joint plus any spall areas — most garage slabs run $250–$750. Book a free consultation and we'll map the slab.
Financing: 0% APR for up to 12 months and $0 down through Wisetack on approved credit — a $3,000 floor is $250 a month, interest-free. Financing details.
Representative photos of the systems on this page. Photos of SwiftHand projects are added as jobs complete.
Properly filled shrinkage cracks won't. A slab that is actively moving — one side settling — can re-crack over time, and we'll point that out at the consultation rather than promise a miracle.
In garages we usually fill them flush so the floor is seamless and easy to sweep. Some customers prefer to leave them as a visual line; either works.
Spalls and pop-outs, yes. A heaved section (raised on one side) needs grinding to level or, in bad cases, slab replacement — we'll be honest about which.
That's efflorescence — salts pushed to the surface by moisture. We grind it off and moisture-test the slab. More here.
Answer a few questions about the space — size, condition, the finish you like — and our instant quote tool builds a written price on the spot. It takes four to five minutes, not sixty seconds, because an accurate number beats a fast one. Prefer a person? Book a free consultation and we'll measure in person.
Get an instant online price in a few minutes, or book a free in-person consultation. No pressure, no sleazy sales pitch — just a written price.
